Third Time's the Charm (Korea)

I’m already used to the “huuuuuhhhhs” and “high yaaaahs” that echo in my window each morning. The Korean children practice their national sport at the World Taekwondo Federation at Kukiwon, located just behind my apartment in Seoul.

I’ve spent three weeks here already (which also means I’ve already returned to some of my local favorites: NB, Norebang, Kogi Kogi, the yogurt ice cream store…). I’m amazed at how easy it was to come back and pick up where I left off last summer.

This is my third summer in Korea, my second year in Seoul. For the first time, I arrived in a foreign country with a visa, a cell phone, a bank account, and a friend’s house to crash at. The ten hour plane ride felt like a normal commute. My brain shifted gears and "ney" (yes) became an automatic reply. I unfolded the mental map in my head, and I knew exactly where I was and where I was going. I didn’t have to research how to say “hello” and “thank you.” Ah yes, I was back in Korea!

Feeling guilty about a forgone opportunity offered to me THE DAY BEFORE I hopped on the airplane, I knew I’d have to make this summer count. It’s not everyday MTV calls you, my friend reminds me. Under other circumstances, I would have jumped on the offer, but this time, it will have to wait.

So I had a few mixed feelings when I first arrived. I was excited to reunite with old friends, like Robin and Paul and John too. I felt motivated to work hard, make some money, and study a little Korean. On the other hand, the familiar surroundings allowed other memories to surface. Some were great, and some made me dizzy: morning walks through sticky humid Kangnam subway station, essays to be graded, happy kids, unruly kids, stress, overtime, instant packets of curry, hot nights, bug bites, why did I want to do this again?

With thanks to my new friend and roommate Karim, I was easily reminded that there was a reason to be “so excited!” I showed him around the first few days, and it was wonderful to look at this place with fresh eyes. I didn’t realize my eyes were so cloudy. I automatically quit noticing a lot of really notably interesting things because I’d seen it all before. It was terrible and it was great. I hated to be that jaded traveler who’s seen it all, “temple, temple, just another freaking temple” (everything except hajjima ladies who lint roll their face on the subway)! But, I also felt empowered to see Korea beyond the congested sidewalks and automobile threats on the side streets that had distracted me for so long. This time, I would get “excited” about new things (like learning how to make kimbap, thanks Robin!).


Somehow, I’m proud to report that so far, I’ve done a good job learning from my mistakes from last year: working too hard and too much! Returning to the same hagwon has many sophomore benefits. I have managed to let my work stay at work, and build in personal time to work out, be creative (blogging & video editing), study Korean, and enjoy this vibrant area.





The Kangnam area is still alive and well. It’s still a prime place for eating and nightlife, for teens studying at summer hagwons and for business men in suits and ties. There have been a lot of changes over the past year; Many familiar streets are decorated with new shops, new restaurants and new bars. But there are still a bunch of the same hang outs, like our everyday kimbap store and Kom Nae Mi and Kogi Kogi. It's fun to have an inside view about the area. Knowing where to go and what to do is nice sometimes.



I’m settled in a nice apartment with two great roommates, Karim and David, whom are both good people. My house is just a 12 minute downhill walk to work, the bars, and the subway, and an athletic 20 minute walk back up at the end of the day. I’ve already devised a stress-free route to work, a way that remarkably eliminates the everyday pedestrian versus automobile war that surrounds me at all other times.

Photos of my apartment and a view from my window:

Japan: Part IV Day six, seven & eight (Tokyo)

I was lucky to sneek a peek at Japan’s most famous sight, Mt. Fuji, on the train ride to Tokyo. I’d been told I might catch a glimpse out the window on a clear day, but of course, there are not many clear days this time of year. They say Mt. Fuji creates it’s own weather over there. The huge cloud covering the summit that I first saw was not unusual, despite the colorful, clear pictures of Mt. Fuji you see everwhere. So, I was EXTREMELY lucky to catch a glimpse of this. (I wanted to snowboard all over it!)

Tokyo was a truly impressive city, based on it’s sheer size. Looking out from the 45th floor observation deck of the Metropolitan Government Office Building, I was stunned at the miles and miles of concrete that surrounded us. No matter what window I peered out, I never saw the edge of the city. There were miles and miles of industrialized territory.

Considering Tokyo’s noted as the most densely populated city in the world, I could feel my personal space diminish by the second. Surprisingly, though, compared to spending two summers in Seoul, another one of the world’s most densely populated cities, Tokyo felt reasonably easy to move around through crowds. After being in Korea, I’d always thought it was normal to throw a firm elbow or drop a shoulder when navigating through dense crowds, but the Japanese people proved me wrong.

Alex and I arrived late Saturday afternoon. We stashed our heavy bags at the 5-star Keio Hotel, which we scammed because Alex’s company JET program was hosting him at a conference starting the same day I flew to out.

We moved on to party in Tokyo’s center for nightlife, Roppongi. There were a number of clubs and bars on our to do list, but slowly, each option failed one by one. A number of Alex’s guaranteed good times were strangely out of business. The only for-sure thing we had that night was the “The Chicken Man,” which was a funny little 7th floor diner catering to Westerners at the wee hours of the morn.

The club was fun. It was more packed than any bar I’ve ever been to. Japan doesn’t have any city codes for fire violations / people control, which makes it quite an achievement to make it to the toilet.

As daylight pushed on, it was time to roll out of the bars with our other bar friends, and find a place to sleep for a few hours. It was my idea to find a capsule hotel, you know, try sleeping in a coffin for one night. But, as they were designed for business men who were too drunk to go home and too practical to get a real hotel room, there were very few that accepted women. We found one in the bible, the Lonely Planet, within a 30 minute walk from Roppongi. Of course, when we got there, all that remained was an empty lot in the process of rebuilding.

Now, at 7am, desperate and exhausted with no place to sleep, we had no choice but to sleep in a potentially densely wooded park or the Korean PC Bang. We chose the PC Bang and got the poorest night’s rest known to man kind. We paid the $10 fee, found a little cubby, and awkwardly past out face down on the desk. Despite my exhaustion, I only slept for about four 20 minute cycles while Alex played the new Starcraft.

A few hours later, it was time to go to Harujuku to see what Harujuku is famously known for: the goth teens in “Cos play” (costume play) on a Sunday afternoon. It was cool to see the youth all dressed up, although I did imagine the bridge area would be a bit more full of weirdos.


The Meiji Jingu Shrine was not far from there. It was a cool shrine because the wood was a natural color, compared to other vermillion colored shrines. I watched some devout Japanese bow twice, clap their hands twice and bow again in prayer. We also got lucky and witnessed a wedding procession! I was thrilled to sneak a peek at the traditional clothing; The wedding kimonos were beautiful.


Later, we went down Takeshita Street in Harujuku and did a little shopping among an ant colony of people shoved in one tiny street. I was again surrounded by the trendy teens in outrageously weird / fashionable clothing, some with buns on top of their heads and others sporting the ever-so-popular she-mullet. It was quite a difficult thing to swim upstream, but a cool experience to go with the flow.

Shopping in Harujuku was pretty fun.
(a funny observation)

We went on browsing from Harujuku to Shibuya, stopping where a million (I exaggerate) people cross the street all at once, going every which way. This famous street corner is like Times Square. I zipped up to the third floor Starbucks to steal a prime watching spot from above. It was insane to watch the heards of people build and build on the sidewalk corner, before being released by the color of the traffic light, turning to true and utter chaos.



That evening was saved for the Oedo-Onsen Monogatari (sauna). Getting clean in a nice, natural hot spring and open air bath was a huge reward for making it through the day with a few hours sleep sitting upright at a smoky computer room. The sauna experience seemed very similar to the saunas I’ve been to in Korea, except they don’t use those amazing Korean exfoliating cloths! But, I did really enjoy dressing up in the yukata.


The next morning, we awoke early from our leather recliners in the rest room, in order to catch the action at the Tsukiji Fish Market. I’ve been to fish markets before, but this one was especially memorable because of the eminent danger of men driving weird motor scooter / trucks powered by keg-like canisters. I am thankful I still have all my toes. The fish was so fresh, so fresh that we saw a few of the big guys still squirming around alive. It’s not easy being a fish.

And then, it was time for me to catch my plane to Seoul, South Korea, to begin my summer contract teaching English.

To Alex: Domo arigato!

To my friends / family: Sorry for the 6 part novel about my seven days in Japan. Hope you enjoyed it.

Japan: Part V Day five (Mizunami)

Mizunami

(Scenic shot of Mizunami)

Friday was all about the locals. Mizunami is the town where Alex is stationed to work for the JET English teaching program. He’s almost finished his first year, and he’s enjoyed it so much that he’s promised to stay another year.


(A cool building on the way to the train station: “beautiful decay”)

I met Alex at his school around 12:30, bringing a special “takeout-o” lunch of grilled eel (Anago) and tempura shrimp. We had a nice meal sitting in classroom school desks with some of Alex’s favorite students. The girls were so cute. I very much enjoyed meeting them.


(Alex and me on the fancy classroom monitors in the A/V room).

Alex’s school seemed like most schools, boys hanging out in the hallway during passing period, girls rolling up their skirts, but there was one small Asian twist. I was quite surprised to look down and notice students in their socks in the classroom. Each day, they actually change out of their uniform shoes into those little plastic indoor sandals during school hours.

It was kind of the school cleaning lady to invite us in for tea. Alex proved to be quite comfortable with his Japaneese skills. I was certainly impressed. If only I could speak Korean as well as he speaks Japanese!

After school, we ventured out to another town a few stops away by train. Ena was home of the Hiroshige Museum of Art, one of Alex’s favorite galleries. We saw some cool traditional Japaneese wood-blocking prints, and even got to make our own in the hands-on exhibit!

Then, we had a feast at a traditional Japanese sushi style restaurant. We sat at the bar and let our feet hang below the floor. We had a front-row view to watch the master prepare the fish with our back was the traditional Japanese style garden oustide.

Later, it was time to wind down. Alex’s favorite singer and Jazz club provided a classy big city atmosphere with small town charm.

Japan: Part IV Day four (Hiroshima & Miyajiama)

Everyone knows that on August 6th, 1945, the city of Hiroshima suffered from the world’s first atomic bomb attack. The bomb instantly killed thousands and devastated an entire city.

(Replica of Hiroshima before and after the atomic bomb)

As an American, it seemed I had some partial duty to pay a visit to this place.



On the surface, Hiroshima seemed like a normal city.

Which is why the Peace Memorial Park was so important to remember the historical event.

The park not only exists to memoralize all the people killed and the lives ruined because of the bombing, but to also share their message: Put an end to nuclear war.
(A-Bomb Dome. This building is one of the few buildings still intact within a 2 km radius of the explosion.)

I learned a lot in visiting the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. It was definitely a valuable use of my time. My audio guide steered me through the political climate that existed before the bombing to people who suffered from the explosion and onto the lives of those affected still today.

Hope for world peace was certainly a common theme when visiting the city. I stayed at a guest house called the World Friendship Center, and it felt good to learn about their cause. The place is run by American volunteers and exists as a meeting place to discuss and promote friendship and world peace. I was appreciative to find such friendly people, especially after arriving just after the last city tram had closed. I was relieved to call and hear a sympathetic voice say, "You must be so tired," and then offer to help me pay for the cab.

Miyajiama
The image of the O-Torii which stands in the sea at high tide is one of Japan's most famous sights. It is located off the island of Miyajiama, about 20 or 30 minutes away from Hiroshima city.
The Itsukushima Shrine


Mount Misen was another a recommended excursion. I went in search of chocolate and monkeys! In my search, I met a nice Belgian man and his Belgian Karate instructor who laughed at my insider tip to find great chocolate at the top of the mountain. They pardoned my silliness and hiked together for an hour. We actually never found the chocolate or the monkeys, but at least we found this beautiful view:

Japan: Part III Day three (Kyoto)

I arrived in Kyoto surprised to find a huge city in the place most commonly known for Japanese tradition. Kyoto is often called "the city of a thousand temples," because it has an astonishing 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines. Friends forwarned me about trying to see too much when visiting Kyoto, especially because the sights are located all across the city, so I took their advice and just picked a few. In one afternoon, I shuttled myself around to my top three choice sights:


Kinkakuji temple, a.k.a. The Golden Pavilion, one of Kyoto's most famous sights


Nijo Castle, with beautiful ornate gold interiors and squeaky Nightingale floor


and Sanjusangendo Temple: This was my favorite sight. The picture of the 1001 Kannons in my Japan book looked so intriguing, I had to see it in real life. My jaw dropped. The 40-armed statues were hand carved and covered in gold leaf. The statues alone were impressive, but seeing 1000 of them together offered a truly interesting piece of artwork to look at. It was quite a treat for the eye. I enjoyed noticing all the intricate details on each statue, trying to identify how one differed slightly from the next.

After that, I wondered around Gion to get a taste of the traditional culture. I even saw a couple Geishas!

(Pictured Left: Gion Street, styled like traditional Japanese buildings; right: normal sidestreet)
After all that craziness shuttling myself all around Kyoto all day, it was time to sit down to a good meal. I wondered off the main street and found an inviting sushi restaurant. I made friends with my Sushi chef and his Japanese friend sitting alone at the counter. They were pleasant company, and it was cool to meet some locals, even if we could barely talk to each other. We giggled a lot as they tried to teach me the Japanese words for the various kinds of fish. Arrigato gozaimas!

Then, in effort to see and do as much as possible, I hurried to the train station to find my way to Hiroshima.