African Drums, Part One: On Safari

There are just a few prices one must pay in order to experience East Africa on a budget.

One must:
Endure miles and miles of turbulent, bumpy roads;


Sleep in basic campsites in a 2-man tent;


Flap the dishes dry;
Taste poison on occasion when ingesting too much bug spray;
Remove layers of dust and dirt with baby wipes;
Or brave a “ish-ish” cold shower;

And bear the stench of a series of long drop toilets.


As grim as that may sound, that's all part of the fun when you travel over land to experience the REAL "Africa Africa"...and it was well worth it.

Much was covered along the 21-day journey around East Africa. The overland safari included a variety of bathroom stops, and curio shops along the way, with highlights marked daily. The tour started in Nairobi, Kenya, and moved straight to Lake Nakuru for some animal watching. Then, we stopped at Lake Naivasha and Hells Gate National Park on the way to Kenya’s most famous game park, the Masai Mara. Week two, we exited Kenya after seeing the elephants at Amboseli National Park, and covered Northern Tanzania’s two most popular game parks, Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti. Changing gears, during week three, I traded my binoculars for my bikini and enjoyed the white sand beaches and Spice tour on Zanzibar Island.



(The Masai at dawn at Amboseli National Park)

WEEK ONE & TWO: SAFARI IN KENYA & TANZANIA
*Seeing the pink stripe of flamingos along Lake Nakuru and observing the dinosaur-like white Rhino.


*Spotting hippos while boating across Lake Naivasha and stopping to take a walk with the giraffes





*Biking alongside zebras and impalas at Hells Gate National Park and doing a challenging trek through the picturesque gorge (where they filmed Tomb Raider and where they did the sketches for the Lion King)



*Indulging in a lukewarm, but locally brewed, Tusker beer, overlooking the intriguing town of Narok



*Watching thousands of wildebeest hoofs thunder across the Masai Mara's rolling plains.


*Gazing at the most intensely-colored evening sunset (Masai Mara)

*Spotting Africa's "Big 5": lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, rhino





*taking in the brilliant colors of the Masai women's brightly patterned clothing



*Watching the Masai warriors jump to win the ladies and listening to the unfamiliar sounds in song


*Chowing down on endless rounds of meat at Nairobi's famous Carnivore Restaurant (also considered one of the world's top 50 restaurants)


*Catching a cheetah kill an antelope at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro and coming face to face with the African Elephant (Amboseli National Park)




*Observing ruffled feathers and exaggerated movements of ostrich mating in the Serengeti


*Witnessing hungry hyenas scavenge over a wildebeest carcass at Ngorongoro Crater


*Bargaining with merchants (and gaining a reputation for my negotiation skills & the "Stone Cold" face)


*Watching the booties on the dance floor


AND--
*Collecting African recipes from Noah, fighting like Jackie Chan, and learning the Swahili lyrics to "Jambo Jambo" (theme song of the trip)




...all to walk away,


charmed, to say the least!


I'd be lying if I said it was easy,

(William and his toothbrush)



but it sure was great.

(Serengeti)


(Mt. Kilimanjaro)

3 Cheers to my awesome Aussie Safari Crew!


Enjoy your t-shirts!


and a BIG shout out to my amazing tentmate Louise!

Happy Feet

Looking out the window

While driving across Kenya & Tanzania, I’m intrigued by the bright colors and exotic patterns worn by the women who walk beside the road. They balance large bags of fruit, giant bundles of sticks, and heavy buckets of water on their heads! There are many people walking along the street. The men pass by on push bikes with oversize baskets attached, while a few levy wooden carts, step by step. From time to time, donkey’s are necessary to share the load. Secondhand name-brand t-shirts and fluorescent pink eighties windbreaker jackets are seen on occasion. There are many young children sitting and playing in a small circle. When they see our gigantic overland vehicle, they happily spring up, smile and wave enthusiastically. The villages are simple. The people are housed in worn wooden shacks with tin roofs and thatched huts made of sticks and mud. Women wearing flip flops stand in their red dirt “front lawn” and hand-wash clothing. I again appreciate the vibrant designs hung on the clothesline.

Every village has a market, the most humble resembling a tattered lemonade stand with a limited selection of local produce. There is usually a Coca-Cola advertisement easily within sight and, a local cell phone company logo too.





It’s soothing to stare at the scenic views, taking in the variety of plains, mountains, and variety of unfamiliar flora, which is sprinkled with acacias and candelabras. There’s nothing but vast open space for miles and miles. And then, a single person is spotted walking with purpose. Where did they come from? Where could they possibly be going? They must have walked for ages.



Our truck stops on the side of the road next to a plantation of sisal plants. We set up the tables and begin cutting and chopping the fresh vegetables for our daily sandwiches. Within moments, we’re surrounded by a half dozen children oogling at the sight of our food. “Why aren’t you in school?” Our tour leader Martin asked. It was Saturday. There was an assortment of eighties and nineties fashions worn, likely second-hand stock sent over from America. Three of the kids were wearing mismatched flip flops. They looked as though they could use a good meal. As I bit into my sandwich, I felt guilty thinking about how their hunger was probably no comparison to ours. I wished we could have fed them all. We offered them a loaf of bread which they eagerly snacked on. Then, a few guys went into the truck and brought out some gifts, just some simple pens and pencils and balloons. They shared their gifts and entertained the kids with farting balloon noises. The kids loved it. It was very special to interact with them and see them smile with new gifts in hand. I wished I’d brought a whole suitcase of old clothes and gifts to give them.



How lucky we are to have as much as we have.